Review
WL Rating
The original title for this book was The Soul of Surfing is Hawaiian, but that was shortened at some point to the current title. Perhaps a better title for the book would be: “Fred Hemmings Talks Story,” since the book really is a loosely edited collection of memories and opinions from one of surfing’s great promoters. Many of Fred’s well-known anecdotes are included like the classic “dead-ahead-Fred” story. But for every story you know, there are another ten you hadn’t heard before (at least if you’re under 60). Fred’s memories and opinions cover topics like surfing in Peru, attending to the Duke, the set-up at Makaha, localism, Waikiki, Hawaiian food, politics, anti-Dora innuendo, and of course, surfing promotion. The book also has a solid selection of classic surfing pictures dredged up from the Hemmings family collection. As you cruise through the book, you definitely get the sense that Fred was driven by a Makaha-sized ego and a natural opportunistic talent. Even so, there’s no denying that he was a key observer and participant during the golden age of Hawaiian surfing. If you are interested in classic surfing history, even if it is highly subjective, then you’ll enjoy Fred talking story. He was there, he was mostly sober (can’t say the same for Hakman), and the memories are good. Fred’s politicizing aside, for its historical value I consider the book a WL Essential. (June 2009)
The Soul of Surfing - Fred Hemmings
